The straight key (sometimes called the hand key) is the original Morse code key. You manually create the dits and dahs with the action of your hand.
Anatomy of a Straight Key
Your fingers rest on the knob. Adjust the contact gap adjustment so that a piece of paper can fit between the contacts and slip out. Adjust the spring tension to your preference.
When you push down on the knob, it connects the contacts and completes the circuit. This causes the radio to go into transmit. When you let off the key, the spring pushes the arm up and stops transmitting.
Some keys have a shorting bar; these are traditional for tube gear and telegraph stations. They are not as important today, but can be used for tuning antennas. Make sure that it is not engaged. Else, the circuit will be connected whether you are using the key or not.
The base should be heavy, so that the key does not jump around the table. I have used a wood plaque, sanded and stained it, then hollowed out the bottom and glued lead weights into the base, then covered it with felt. I have also used a steel plate glued to the bottom and attaching felt to the bottom.
How to connect the key to the radio
Most older radios used a 1/4 audio jack for the straight key. Newer radios vary: some use a 1/4-inch stereo jack or a 3.5 mm jack. Depending on the radio, you may need to alter the setting from iambic paddle to straight key. Consult your radio manual for exact details.
Connect the 2 wires to the binding posts on the key. You can either cut an audio cable and install connectors or find a speaker cable with dedicated Y/Spade connectors. It doesn’t need to be anything fancy, just enough to pass a ‘connected’ or ‘not connected’ signal to the radio.
American vs European Style Keying
There are many differing opinions about straight keys, and many different preferences. For every key, there is an optimal way to operate it. J-38 and similar keys use an American style keying.
I have included a short list of good and bad keys. If you have a chance, try the keys until you find one you like. And once you do, learn Morse code and use it on the air for a while. You should be able to make contacts with any straight key, regardless of whether it is ‘good’ or ‘bad’.
Good Straight Keys – In My Opinion
You can find these at nearly every hamfest for a reasonable price. If it is not mounted, you can buy a small wooden plank or a metal plate with felt on the bottom. This is not an exhaustive list; there are too many to list. But in general, if it feels good to use, has tension and gap adjustment, and is not corroded, you are probably fine. Don’t plan on spending more than $75 on your first key.
J37/J38/JJ38 Variants – $
This key has lots of clones and remixes over the years, but they are all basically the same. Every CW operator has at least 1 of these. Very inexpensive and very common – great points for a learning CW operator. You can find this key at any hamfest. For these reasons, I recommend that every new operator try one of these. Just avoid the leg strap styles; these are usually WW2/Korean military surplus and can cost more money. And the best way to use a straight key is on a solid table, not on a fleshy, squishy leg.
Other variants: Nye Viking SpeedX, Ameco K4,
Nye Viking Speed Key -$$
Navy Flameproof -$$
This key is a favorite among CW operators because of its history and feel. The US military made many of these during WW2 and after. They call them flameproof because the contacts are enclosed to prevent sparking in explosive environments. They were used on ships and planes. Unfortunately, these keys are going up in price. If you can find one for a reasonable price, great! Otherwise, a less ‘collectable’ straight key may be a better option. I usually see at least 1 at every hamfest.
I had one of these. Very nice feel, very easy to service and clean up. There are several sellers online that make heavy bases and sell parts for them.
Online prices are about $75.
Czech Tank Key – $$
This is a surplus key that was common in the 90s after the USSR split. It was used on the tanks, which is why it had a flameproof design. The keying action feels great, and the key itself is built like a truck. I put a rubber adhesive mat on the bottom, and it stays in place. I also had to replace the cable; the old one was in bad shape and used a strange plug.
Unfortunately, the surplus of these has dried up. They can cost $75 or more online. I haven’t seen any for sale in person.
Ukrainian TK/Cherkasy Key – $
This is one of my all-time favorite keys. On paper, this key is nothing special. New old stock from the former Soviet bloc. Most were never used because they were made in the late ’80s. Before the Russia/Ukraine war, these keys could be shipped from Ukraine for less than $30 total. Once a base is installed, this key is magnificent! It has no business feeling this good and being as durable as it is. It has a chatter/clack that is NOISY!
There is a version of this with a filter base. These filter bases are not needed with modern radios.
New old stock prices are $50 + tariffs/shipping from Eastern EU.
Soviet Practice Key – $
These old keys are pretty interesting. The Soviet Union made many of these keys, so you can find them for less than $20! The knobs can be fun colors. These keys were used in training Morse operators, so they are pretty basic. But basic is good enough to learn from. I had one of these to try out, and it is perfectly acceptable. I had other keys I liked more, so I sold it.
These keys are easily found for $30 online. Not common at US hamfests.
German Junker Key* – $$$
This key is a boutique key that I use often. It is one of the finest keys that you can buy. Unfortunately, they command a high price. I have it here because it feels great. But I don’t suggest this key simply because of price.
Some Keys to Avoid – In My Opinion
3d printed straight keys
These keys have a place, and the paddles are acceptable. Unfortunately, the 3d printed straight keys are not as sturdy. The arms flex, which could affect the timing of your keying. They are better than nothing, but a J-38 clone can be found at a hamfest for the same price. I can also guarantee that a J-38 will also last longer.
Collectors edition keys
These are expensive versions of common keys. Unless you are a collector, you can find an exact
Unusual military keys
Military surplus is a strange topic. True, there are several keys above that are or former military surplus. But not all are created equal. Some belong in a museum, and some are very expensive simply for what they are. Military surplus used to mean inexpensive and solid quality. Now they are collectors items and may not be the best experience.
In short: there are better keys that cost less.
I have personally seen WW2 German keys. I thought about buying it. But the $150 price tag is hard to swallow, espicially since I have many other fine keys.
Mini Straight Keys
I know it looks cute, but they are not as easy to use. These are more eye candy than usable tools. Just skip these and save the achy wrist. If you want a portable straight key, a J-38 on a mobile base is pretty small. Or use a portable paddle.
What is a sideswiper?
The sideswiper is like a CW paddle, except that it is not connected to an automatic keyer. It only has 1 arm instead of 2. The action of side to side gives a different rhythm than a straight key. Since the action is different, it is said to be easier on the wrist and hands. Unfortunately, I do not own one of these to verify this.
To learn more about the straight key and straight key operation, visit the Straight Key Century Club (SKCC). https://www.skccgroup.com/