The straight key (sometimes called the hand key) is the original Morse code key. You manually create the dits and dahs with the action of your hand.
Should I learn how to use a straight Key?
Yes, yes yes! The straight key is a viable tool in today’s radio field. You can find them for sale at nearly every hamfest. You could say it is like driving a stick shift instead of an automatic car. Or maybe using a handmade dessert or a store-bought one.
In my opinion, everyone should start with a straight key. It teaches the operator to make clean code, without the help of timing circuits or computers to generate clean code.
Anatomy of a Straight Key
Your fingers rest on the knob. Adjust the contact gap adjustment so that a piece of paper can fit between the contacts and slip out. Adjust the spring tension to your preference.
When you push down on the knob, it connects the contacts and completes the circuit. This causes the radio to go into transmit. When you let off the key, the spring pushes the arm up and stops transmitting.
Some keys have a shorting bar; these are traditional for tube gear and telegraph stations. They are not as important today, but can be used for tuning antennas. Make sure that it is not engaged. Otherwise, the circuit will be connected whether you are using the key or not.
The base should be heavy, so that the key does not jump around the table. I have used a wood plaque, sanded and stained it, then hollowed out the bottom and glued lead weights into the base, then covered it with felt. I have also used a steel plate glued to the bottom and attaching felt to the bottom.
How to connect the key to the radio
Most older radios used a 1/4 audio jack for the straight key. Newer radios vary: some use a 1/4-inch stereo jack or a 3.5 mm jack. Depending on the radio, you may need to alter the setting from iambic paddle to straight key. Consult your radio manual for exact details.
Connect the 2 wires to the binding posts on the key. You can either cut an audio cable and install connectors or find a speaker cable with dedicated Y/Spade connectors. It doesn’t need to be anything fancy, just enough to pass a ‘connected’ or ‘not connected’ signal to the radio.
Where should the key sit on the desk?
This is a good question
Good Straight Keys – In My Opinion
You can find these at nearly every hamfest for a reasonable price. If it is not mounted, you can buy a small wooden plank or a metal plate with felt on the bottom. This is not an exhaustive list; there are too many to list. But in general, if it feels good to use, has tension and gap adjustment, and is not corroded, you are probably fine. Don’t plan on spending more than $75 on your first key.
This list is not exhaustive. Here are a few suggestions. If you see a key not on this list, try to follow these few guidelines:
Less than $75 – An expensive key will not improve your code.
Adjustable gap and tension spring
Good cosmetic condition (no rust, no missing parts, etc)
Solid base or ability to mount on a base.
No slop in the key (side-to-side movement)
J37/J38/JJ38 Variants – $
This key has lots of clones and remixes over the years, but they are all basically the same. Every CW operator has at least 1 of these. Very inexpensive and very common – great points for a learning CW operator. You can find this key at any hamfest. For these reasons, I recommend that every new operator try one of these. Just avoid the leg strap styles; these are usually WW2/Korean military surplus and can cost more money. And the best way to use a straight key is on a solid table, not on a fleshy, squishy leg.
Other variants: Nye Viking SpeedX, Ameco K4
Nye Viking/Speed/SpeedX Key -$$
Nye made a few different keys, so there are a few different models.
Simple vintage key. These were very common in the 70s, but are not made anymore. You are likely to find one of these at a hamfest. Since they are simple, you can find them for a reasonable price.
Xiegu VK-5/Putikeeg Straight Key – $$
This key is unusual because you can buy it new right now! This is branded by Xiegu, but you may find clones and copies with other Chinese names. These are nice-looking and cost between $55 and $75.
Another unusual part about this key is the construction. Most keys at this price point are plastic. Plastic is not bad; there are plenty of great plastic keys. But the only plastic on this key is the knob. This key is made from Aluminum and other alloys for a nice heavy feel.
A fantastic plus is that it comes equipped with a 3.5mm jack. No need to butcher or get a fancy cable! Just plug in, and you are sending code. They also have a rubber sheet on the bottom, so the key doesn’t walk on the desk.
Some users have reported the quality control is lacking, but the minor defects can be easily mitigated with some creativity and elbow grease.
For the features and the low price for a NEW key, this is a great option.
Navy Flameproof – $$
This key is a favorite among CW operators because of its history and feel. The US military made many of these during WW2 and after. They call them flameproof because the contacts are enclosed to prevent sparking in explosive environments. They were used on ships and planes. Unfortunately, these keys are going up in price. If you can find one for a reasonable price, great! Otherwise, a less ‘collectable’ straight key may be a better option. I usually see at least 1 at every hamfest.
I had one of these. Very nice feel, very easy to service and clean up. There are several sellers online that make heavy bases and sell parts for them.
Online prices are about $75.
Chinese D-117/K4 Key
This is a pretty neat key. There are military surplus keys, and there are also some that are made today.
I owned one of these. It is fine. It is nice and heavy, so it doesn’t dance around the desk.
The common consensus is that the spring is extra tight. Try cutting off half a turn from the bottom of the spring.
Current price online is about $70
Czech Tank Key – $$
This is a surplus key that was common in the 90s after the USSR split. It was used on the tanks, which is why it had a flameproof design. The keying action feels great, and the key itself is built like a truck. I put a rubber adhesive mat on the bottom, and it stays in place. I also had to replace the cable; the old one was in bad shape and used a strange plug.
Unfortunately, the surplus of these has dried up. They can cost $75 or more online.
Ukrainian TK/Cherkasy Key – $
This is one of my all-time favorite keys. On paper, this key is nothing special. Bakelite plastic, new old stock from the former Soviet bloc. Most were never used because they were made in the late ’80s. When the Soviet Union dissolved, there were warehouses full of these keys. Lots of surplus sellers online sold these for very reasonable prices. Before the Russia/Ukraine war, these keys could be shipped from Ukraine for less than $30 total. Once a base is installed, this key is magnificent! It has no business feeling this good and being as durable as it is. It has a chatter/clack that is NOISY! I put a piece of paper under the key stop, and that helped with the chatter.
I paid about $35 (pre-Russian war) for one of these keys and mounted it on a wood base. The only key that felt better than this cost 5 times more!
There is a version of this with a filter base. These filter bases are not needed with modern radios.
New old stock prices are $50 + tariffs/shipping from Eastern EU.
Soviet Practice Key – $
These old keys are pretty interesting. The Soviet Union made many of these keys, so you can find them for less than $20! Probably one of the mosinexpensive keys you will find online. the knobs can be fun colors. These keys were used in training Morse operators, so they are pretty basic. But basic is good enough to learn from. I had one of these to try out, and it is perfectly acceptable. I had other keys I liked more, so I sold it.
Not common at US hamfests. Great for a conversation piece and for learning code. Though sometimes they feel like they were adjusted with a hammer from the tractor factory. A little maintenance can go a long way here.
Some Keys to Avoid – In My Opinion
Boutique Keys German Junker Key* – $$$
This is not a bad key. In fact, it is my favorite key. But beginners don’t need to spend this kind of money on a key.
This key is a boutique key that I use often. In my opinion, it is one of the finest keys that you can buy. Unfortunately, they command a high price. I love this key. But I also paid over $200 for it.
They sometimes come with a case and lid, or will be standalone.
Some boutique keys are German Junker Keys, Begali keys, N3ZN keys, Kent Keys
3d printed straight keys
These keys have a place, and 3d printed paddles are acceptable. Unfortunately, the 3d printed straight keys are not as sturdy. The arms flex, which could affect the timing of your keying. They are better than nothing, but a J-38 clone can be found at a hamfest for the same price. I can also guarantee that a J-38 will last longer. Use one if you have one. Make one if you feel inclined. But don’t feel the need to own one if you don’t have one.
Collector’s edition keys
These are expensive versions of common keys. Unless you are a collector, you can find an exact model and save lots of money. Examples of collectors’ keys include Vibroplex anniversary keys, SKCC limited-run keys, and WRTC competition keys.
Unusual/exotic military keys
Military surplus is a strange topic. True, there are several keys above that are or were former military surplus. But not all are created equal. Some belong in a museum, and some are very expensive simply for what they are. Military surplus used to mean inexpensive and solid quality. Now they are collector’s items and may not be the best experience.
In short: there are better keys that cost less.
I have personally seen authentic WW2 German keys. I thought about buying it. But the $150 price tag is hard to swallow, especially since I have many other fine keys. And these keys are not better than the common keys.
I have experimented with lots of these keys from the Eastern Bloc. And some were acceptable, and some were awful. The prices were ok for most.
Examples of these keys:
Mini Straight Keys
I know they look cute, but they are not easy to use. These are more eye candy than usable tools. It is very difficult to get enough weight on them so they won’t slide on the desk. Just skip these and save the achy wrist. If you want a portable straight key, a J-38 on a mobile base is pretty small. Or use a portable paddle.
What is a sideswiper?
The sideswiper is like a CW paddle, except that it is not connected to an automatic keyer. It only has 1 arm instead of 2. The side-to-side action gives a different rhythm than a straight key. Since the action is different, it is said to be easier on the wrist and hands. Unfortunately, I do not own one of these to verify this.
To learn more about the straight key and straight key operation, visit the Straight Key Century Club (SKCC). https://www.skccgroup.com/